Looking at the rise of a new generation of Chinese designer brands and fashion groups from Shanghai Fashion Week

In Shanghai Fashion Week, in addition to more and more brands created by Chinese cutting-edge designers, we can see that a new generation of relatively young Chinese fashion enterprise groups are showing low-key.

The Shanghai Fashion Week in the spring and summer of 2018 came to an end, and the Shanghai Fashion Week for the masses of consumers opened. Here, in the upstream and downstream of the fashion industry, there is a more and more benign interaction cycle between supply and demand, and an ecosystem that focuses on the display and release of business, the exchange of business and trade, and the promotion of fashion consumption are gradually formed.

"Glory" is the chief cooperation media of Shanghai Fashion Week MODE exhibition, and continues to deeply track the development of Shanghai Fashion Week. In this season, we have heard more about the industry discussion of China's fashion industry, and learned more about young and new designers. The desire to learn business, the rise of more new generation of Chinese fashion brands and a new generation of Chinese fashion enterprise groups is worth looking forward to.

Professional and orderly fashion business ecology formation

The important section of Shanghai Fashion Week - MODE Shanghai Apparel and Fashion Show, re-positioned in 2015 as a showcase as a display unit, and developed into this season, successfully joined the six major cooperative exhibitions to jointly create the "Asia's largest ordering season": in addition to the cooperation in the past season ONTIMESHOW, Shitang Showroom Shanghai and DFO Showroom, as well as TUBE Showroom, ALTER Showroom and the internationally renowned WHITE exhibition.

As of the end of the exhibition, the seven business platforms received more than 20,000 professional visitors, of which only MODE exhibition received more than 6,500 professional visitors. The growing exhibition clusters, like eternal motives, continue to deliver commercial vibrancy to Shanghai Fashion Week, provide a one-stop trade service platform for the development of cutting-edge fashion brands in China and Asia, and become China's new generation of fashion brands and fashion groups. A stage for display, trading and orderly competition.

With Shanghai Fashion Week, every participant is learning and growing fast. Gu Yeli, the principal manager of Ontimeshow, the official cooperation exhibition of MODE exhibition, said in the exchange with "Glory" that the biggest feeling is "the right place and the people: people and is the support of Shanghai Fashion Week for Chinese original design." And the pavement of sedimentation; the location is China's huge demographic dividend; the time is the time to enter. The rapid development of Ontimeshow is impossible if it was put 10 years ago."

As the chief cooperation media of Shanghai Fashion Week MODE Exhibition, “Glory” visited the cooperation exhibitions of this season and had in-depth exchanges with the exhibition owners, brand founders, showrooms and buyers. The rapid learning of the season, no matter from the site construction, dynamic design, exhibitor services, professional audience segmentation, etc., all exhibitions are more and more professional, and gradually form a differentiated positioning. For Chinese cutting-edge designers, such a business ecosystem is undoubtedly a fertile ground for helping them grow, interact with the market, and compete in an orderly manner.

Showroom Shanghai, which has been held at the Shanghai Exhibition Center for two consecutive seasons, is very thoughtful in this season. The exhibition site can efficiently register professional visitors on the mobile phone. This time, the collection of 93 domestic and overseas brands, ushered in more than expected visitors on the first day.

The Ontimeshow showcases a young and fun lifestyle. The KKtP from Canada's Herschel Supply and footwear designer Kim Kiroic jointly released a new season of collaboration; BADMARKET teamed up with designer Su Wukou. The brand Purlicue has created a “luxury fast food restaurant”.

The DFO Showroom, a clothing and accessories brand that specializes in overseas designers, has been the official exhibition of Shanghai Fashion Week since the last season. This time, DI:LOFT was unveiled in its refurbished perennial exhibition space.

For the first time, ALTER SHOWROOM, as the Shanghai Fashion Week Cooperation Exhibition, was unanimously rated as the “Best and Most Happy” exhibition hall. Here, we can feel the more open cooperation between Chinese cutting-edge designers, such as the brand JINNNN and graduation. The designer of the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Percy Lau, the youngest winner in the history of the YKK Awards, launched the 2018 Spring/Summer Access Line Limited Edition.

It is also the first time to become the official cooperation exhibition of Fashion Week. The TUBE Showroom has cooperated with many artists this season. It is different from the traditional exhibition display method, and presents different types of designer brands through two spaces.

It is important to note that although this is the first time that the famous Italian fashion show WHITE has become the official cooperation exhibition of Shanghai Fashion Week, the co-founder of the WHITE exhibition, Massimiliano Bizzi, has been paying attention to Shanghai Fashion Week for many years. When asked why he was concerned about Shanghai Fashion Week, he said: "I knew Shanghai Fashion Week 6 or 7 years ago. At that time, Shanghai Fashion Week was not very famous, but for me Shanghai Fashion Week is very important because There are many very talented cutting-edge designers in China, and every time I come to Shanghai Fashion Week, I find more and more professional buyers, so I think Shanghai Fashion Week has the potential to become one of the most important fashion weeks in the world."

The WHITE exhibition was founded in 2000 and hosts four seasons each year. In the communication with "Glory", he said: "WHITE exhibition will definitely promote better exchanges between Chinese fashion industry and Italian fashion industry. The Italian fashion industry is very mature, most of the luxury goods are produced in Italy. There are also many in Italy. Small and medium-sized enterprises, now mostly passed down by the third and fourth generations, are usually very professional in a certain segment of fashion. WHITE exhibition as a "bridge" can bring the good parts of Italy into China."

Globalization vision of China's fashion industry

In addition to the participation of the well-known Italian exhibition WHITE, Shanghai Fashion Week is gaining more and more participation and support from the global fashion industry. With the creation of “Asia's largest ordering season”, the head of the Tokyo Fashion Week, JFW, the head of the Nakamura Affairs Bureau, has visited Shanghai Fashion Week for two consecutive seasons and proposed that he hopes to host Shanghai Fashion Week in the future. Develop better communication and coordination.

Many Chinese designers who have come out of Shanghai Fashion Week have gained a certain international recognition and are invited to enter the official agenda of the four major international fashion weeks.

At the China-US Fashion-Losophy International Fashion Forum held this week during the Shanghai Fashion Week, Steven Kolb, CEO of the American Fashion Designers Association (CFDA), specifically mentioned: “Fashion is a business, and fashion week is The key to promoting this business development, Fashion Week can not only bring huge economic value growth to the city, but also a symbol and representation of the city's unique culture and identity. Like New York and Shanghai, it continues to support through Fashion Week. And launch excellent design talents from both China and the United States."

Steven hopes to recommend American designers to participate in Shanghai Fashion Week after returning home. In addition, he also said that in the past everyone mentioned the four major international fashion weeks, but now Shanghai's rapid development and vitality make it have the potential to become a more global fashion week.

At every show in Shanghai Fashion Week, we can find showrooms, multi-brand collection stores, cutting-edge designer brands and even overseas buyers from overseas countries and regions such as Italy, France, the United States, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia. For example, Italian luxury brand e-commerce LUISAVIAROMA CEO Andrea Panconesi appeared in Shanghai this season. He has rarely traveled long distances. He hopes to help Chinese designers open up the global market and let more people who love fashion understand the East. Aesthetics and Chinese designers, this time he selected independent design brands such as ANGEL CHEN, JINNNN, SIMON GAO, CHRISOU BY DAN, LAURENCE & CHIC O, and will be sold on LVR.COM.

Pictured above is the sharing of luxury brand e-commerce LUISAVIAROMA CEO Andrea Panconesi in the MODE TALK industry talks

This year's Shanghai Fashion Week also welcomed a group of overseas fashion industry celebrities: Suzanne Timmins, Senior Vice President and Fashion Director of Hudson's Bay / Saks Fifth Avenue Group, David Hardida, CEO of Tranoi, France's top fashion show, and internationally renowned Chinese designers and their partners include: 3.1 Philip Lim's founder Philip Lim and CEO Wen Zhou, and Derek Lam CEO Jan Schlottmann.

"Made in China" gold content is constantly upgrading

During the Shanghai Fashion Week this season, we heard more about the industry discussion around the Chinese fashion industry, and saw more active brands and institutions actively explore and try.

“The “MADE IN CHINA Made in China” label has been continuously upgraded in China and the global fashion industry, representing the upgrading of Chinese product quality and the voice of Chinese suppliers in the global fashion industry.” In this fashion week, by The Woolmark At the Woolmark Studio forum hosted by the company, many yarn and fabric leading companies including Shandongnanshan Textile Apparel Co., Ltd., Shandong Ruyi Woolen Apparel Group and Zhejiang Xinao Textile Co., Ltd. are lamented.

China's garment manufacturing is gradually shifting from “world factory” to “China's smart manufacturing”. Many garment manufacturing companies actively promote R&D design and innovation, actively cooperate with design brands, and take a longer-term perspective on corporate development. In such a large environment, more and more cutting-edge design brands are boldly expanding to the mass market under the company's company or even incubation. The new generation of fashion enterprise groups in China is rapidly becoming large-scale and globalized.

The rise of a new generation of fashion brands and fashion groups

This season, LABELHOOD, which carries the role of young pioneers and original innovative designers in front of the public, continues to bring fashion, official fashion publications of different styles and styles to buyers, consumers and fashion lovers. Excellent young design brands are hard to find, including new brands, including Cynthia & Xiao, steventai, KA WA KEY, PRIVATE POLICY, 8ON8 and SIRLOIN. (For more information about LABELHOOD, please see: "Glorious" exclusive interview with Changzhu Dongliang Buying Store + Shanghai Fashion Week LABELHOOD co-founder Tasha Liu Liu Xinyu)

The picture above shows the brand YVMIN participating in LABELHOOD

In addition, it is worth noting that this season's fashion week is the first launch of the new promotion platform: XCOMMONS, the brand participating in this launch platform has a certain recognition, including: HAIZHEN WANG, WHM-ZUCZUG, BOUNDLESS, RECLOTHING BANK and so on.

In Shanghai Fashion Week, in addition to more and more brands created by Chinese cutting-edge designers, we can see that a new generation of relatively young Chinese fashion enterprise groups are showing low-key.

Founded in 1997, ICICLE He held the celebration of the 20th anniversary of the brand. This clothing brand that advocates the concept of "Heaven and Man" has always been very low-key. Because of the concept of environmental protection, the natural cotton and silk selected by Wohe The fabrics are from the world's best fabric suppliers. Currently, ICICLE Wo, which owns 3 directly affiliated factories, has opened more than 200 stores in China. At the end of 2012, it established an overseas branch in the world fashion capital of Paris and successfully opened up. The talent channel in Europe and China allows a local Chinese company to truly move from the core of the brand to the world.

At the same time of internationalization, some young Chinese clothing companies have begun to develop into multi-brand groups. For example, the local Chinese brand ZUCZUG, which was founded in 2002, is one of the most representative designer brands in China. The multi-brand group of new lifestyles includes: fashion brand ZUCZUG, environmental brand klee klee, sports brand An Ko Rau, accessory brand extra one, designer personal brand WHM. The last two brands appeared in the Fashion Week's TUBE Showroom and Xintiandi release show this season.

In the communication with "Glory", Ms. Lu Xiaolei, deputy secretary-general of the Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee, once compared Shanghai Fashion Week as a kitchen. It is full of flavor and fire, and all parties in the industry can Seeing, hearing, learning and deeply participating in the development of China's fashion industry here, everyone gathers here, matures, and cooperates and influences each other.

Editor in charge: Wang Zhen